from wikiHow – The How to Manual That You Can Edit

So you found a pattern for a cool skirt and you dug out Grandma’s old sewing machine, but now what? This page will teach you where to put the upper thread. Get ready to sew to your heart’s content! The machine used in this article is a Brother CE-4000, but most machines should be similar. Click on any photo for a closer look.

Steps

1. First you’ll need to wind a bobbin, which is a small spool of thread. See the linked article for detailed instructions.
2. Place your spool of thread on the rear arm or post. For taller spools, you can usually pull on the arm to extend it.
   • For some machines, there also may be a spool holder that slides onto the post. Place this on after the spool, making sure the spool can still spin freely.
3. Place your bobbin on the bobbin winder, as pictured. Sometimes this will be a swing arm that you push to the right against another arm so that the bobbin doesn’t get too full.
4. Unwrap a few inches of thread from the spool. You’ll need to pull that thread around the tension arm or button on the left-hand side of the machine and then pull it back to the right side of the machine to the bobbin.
5. Pull that piece of thread up through one of the pinholes in the bobbin. I usually cheat by wrapping one or two rounds of thread around the bobbin by hand to get started.
6. Press your floor pedal to get the machine started winding thread around the bobbin. Keep the machine going until the bobbin is fully wrapped but thread is not overlapping the bobbin edge.
7. Cut the thread so that the bobbin has a short tail and remove the bobbin from the top of the machine.
8. Now you can prepare the machine to actually sew. The main spool of thread will stay in the same spot on top of the machine. The bobbin’s home is under a small door that is below and in front of your needle.
9. Unwind a few inches of thread from the bobbin. (Note that in the pictures, I have switched over to a teal colored thread on the bobbin, just so you can differentiate between bobbin thread and spool thread.)
10. Drop the bobbin into the space such that if you pulled on the thread, the bobbin would spin counter-clockwise. (You should be able to pull on the tail of thread to the right and the thread should unwind fairly easily.)
11. There should be a cutout that you will lay the bobbin thread into. In my machine, there is a C-shaped loop with a blade at the end to cut off the thread.
12. Close the trap door. There should be no thread protruding from it.
13. Now we need to wind the thread from the spool through the machine. Unwind about a foot long length of thread from the spool. You’ll need to keep tension on the line as you wind it through the areas of the machine described below, but only so tight as to hold it in place, otherwise the thread will break. This image shows the path that the thread needs to go as explained in the next 3 steps.
14. Take the thread and pull it through the top left hand arm of the machine.
15. Next the thread goes straight down through a gully cut into the sewing machine. The thread then goes back up so it’s making a U-shape.
16. Most machines will have a hooked wire arm above the needle that goes up and down in time with the needle. This arm pulls the thread off of the spool with gentle tension. Wrap the thread up and over the arm, then take it down towards the needle.
17. Now we’ll send the thread through the areas that will help us thread the needle. At the top of the needle is a hook. Pull the thread through that hook and out toward the left-side of the machine.
18. Next you will see a gray lever that is to the left of the needle. Run the thread under the inverse V-shaped part of that arm.
19. Pull the loose thread across the front of the eye of the needle. At the same time, pull down on the grey lever. You’ll see a little arm swing forward like a hand grabbing a stick. The goal of this is that the barbs on the hand will grab the thread and pull it through the eye of the needle. This may take a few tries. Make sure that the hand is grabbing at the right spot on the needle by turning the manual wheel on the right side of the machine. This will move the needle up and down.
20. Once the needle is threaded, grab the excess thread and pull it under the ‘foot’ of the machine that will sit on the cloth. When you first start sewing, be sure to hang on to that thread, so that it doesn’t get pulled right out of the eye of the needle.

Tips

• Refer to your machine’s manual, if you have it.
• Some companies now post threading information online. It’s worth trying a web search for your model number.
• Most machines thread in a generally similar manner. If yours doesn’t look quite like this one, see if you can find instructions for one that is similar, or give it your best guess.
• Look for threading instructions printed on your machine. Many newer machines have lines and arrows to help you along.

Things You’ll Need

• Spool of thread
• Bobbin (the little clear plastic spool)
• Sewing Machine

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Thread a Sewing Machine. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

from wikiHow – The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Adjusting the tension on a sewing machine can be one of the most daunting tasks to hinder someone who is a “newbie” to sewing. In fact it often stops people from advancing and using this versatile & creative vehicle of self-expression.
By grasping a few basic concepts, one can understand how to adjust the tension on most any machine, regardless of brand and model.
Most domestic sewing machines are of the “lockstitch” variety. That means an upper thread and a lower thread “lock” together. If they don’t lock together in the correct place, the tension is “off” and the seam lacks proper strength.
As the threads lock together, they form a knot. If this knot is in the correct place, it is never seen…it is hidden (locked) between the two layers that are being sewn together. When these knots are obvious on the bottom or the top sewing surface, it’s time to adjust your tension.
Basic Concept: If you get a picture in your mind of the tension knob as a device to raise and lower these knots, it makes the adjustment much easier.

Steps

1. Sew a test seam.
2. Observe the seam on the top and the bottom surface using a magnifying device if need be.
3. Find the position of the knots.
4. Tighten the tension and “pull the knots up” if the knots appear on the bottom side of the sewn seam.
5. Loosen the tension and “drop the knots down” if the knots are on the top surface.
6. Sew a test on the fabric you will be using. Tensions often have to be adjusted when changing fabric types and weights.
7. Continue adjusting the tension and inspecting the seam until your seam is balanced.

Tips

• When sewing your test seam, use the same fabric as your project, and the same type of thread, BUT use different thread colors. Choose contrasting top and bottom thread colors, and make sure both contrast with your fabric. This will make everything much easier to see and therefore make your adjustments more accurate. Just remember to change to the right color thread when you are ready to sew!
• Most machines tensions are tightened by turning the tension knob clockwise (see your owner’s manual for the location of this dial). Conversely turning the tension knob counter-clockwise loosens the tension.
• There are two tensions on most machines: The upper tension and the bobbin tension. Generally speaking, the bobbin tension never needs adjusting and the sewing person with just average skills can get into much trouble by changing this setting. It may end up with a trip to a professional repairman!
• As you begin sewing a seam, remember to pull the thread tails to the back of the machine and away from the needle area or “bird nesting” can occur. This is another common and frustrating occurrence for new machine operators.

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Adjust the Tension on a Sewing Machine. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

from wikiHow – The How to Manual That You Can Edit

There are a lot of sewing machine choices out there, from fancy, expensive computerized machines that can embroider large designs to basic garage sale machines with little more than forward and reverse. Where should the budget-conscious beginner begin and what features are probably too much?

Steps

1. Consider first the reasons you want a sewing machine. Do you want to sew drapery? Make crafts? Make clothing? Do mending or alterations? Do embroidery or quilting?
2. Be honest with yourself: how much time will you actually spend at your sewing machine?
3. Consider the above factors when comparing machines. Sewing machine types and quality range from very basic machines meant for only occasional mending to very high end machines meant for sewing multiple layers of upholstery material and even to machines that will embroider anything you can imagine. The costs will range from around $150 USD to $15000 USD and up.
4. Shop around online first. Get a good idea of what is available for what price. If you go to your local shop, you are much more likely to be “encouraged” to purchase something more expensive than what you need, not because you need the machine, but because the salesperson needs the commission.
5. Get an idea about what you’ll get for your money in various price ranges.
   • 0-$200 USD: “Disposable” machines with plastic cams (parts) that are hard to find/replace. Common brands in this price range are “Brother”, Some very low end “Singer” and “Kenmore” brands and some less well known brand names such as Riccar thrown in for good measure. If you’re purchasing the machine at a department store such as Kmart or Walmart, this is likely what you are getting.
   • $200-$600: Average machines which will do well for the occasional seamstress, but will not hold up well long term if you are doing a lot of sewing. (i.e. more than once a week) Good name brands in this price range are Singer, Bernina, White, Janome etc. These machines can occasionally be found in higher end department stores such as Sears or JCPenney.
   • $700 to $2000: Machines in this price range tend to last longer because they are made from better materials and are engineered better. They also have much better availability of replacement parts for repair. Most good brands will have machines in this price range as well as in the average price range. Mid-range to higher-end Baby Locks, Bernina, Viking Husquavarna, Janome, Juki, Pfaff and a few higher end Singers can be found in this range. Machines in this range are generally not available in department stores and must be purchased either from a sewing shop or online.
   • $2000 and up: Machines used by tailors, seamstresses, upholsterers and others who use their machines on an almost daily basis. Machines over $2000 USD tend to be specialty machines such long arm quilting machines, upholstery machines, and embroidery machines. Many sewing shops will rent you time on these machines for a very reasonable fee, saving you the time and expense of purchasing your own (and the space to store them).
   • The serger, or overlock, machine is another type of specialty sewing machine. It sews with multiple needles and multiple threads to create stitches better suited to stretchy fabrics, such as those used for t-shirts and swimsuits. It is probably not what you want for general purpose sewing. If a serger is the kind of machine you want, they also range from about $200 on up into the low thousands of dollars.
6. Narrow down your preferred machines to two or three.
7. Visit your local sewing shop and ask for a demonstration of each of those machines. You may have to visit different shops for different brands.
8. Compare your budget to the price machine you want, and decide on any compromises or adjustments you will need to make if they don’t quite match. Will you purchase a used machine? Will you save up for a little longer? Will you chose a slightly lower quality machine?
9. Price shop online again and check eBay prices. Often, you can get a fantastic deal on a very lightly used machine if you’ve done your homework beforehand.
10. Consider whether the personal instruction at the shop is worth the extra $200-500 dollars you’ll pay at the shop. If you already know how to sew and you can get a copy of the manual, you may not need to talk to anyone about it to use the machine.
11. Buy your machine, take the time to learn how to use it, and enjoy.

Tips

• Well known and respected brands include Baby Lock, Bernina, Elna, Husquavarna Viking, Sears – Kenmore, Pfaff ,Janome, and Singer.
• Brands to avoid (unless you are doing only a minimal amount of sewing)include Brother, Riccar, White, and most others. See online user ratings such as those found in Consumer Reports for a more in-depth rating.
• Don’t let the number and variety of stitches persuade you to purchase a more expensive machine. If you don’t use them, they may as well not be on the machine, so consider whether or not you’ll use them with the type of sewing that you do. You can do a lot of sewing with a simple forward, reverse, and perhaps a zig-zag stitch.

Warnings

• Lower end machines, while sufficient for occasional mending, should probably be avoided by anyone hoping to sew more than once per month. Expect them to wear out. Expect to call for service and be told that parts are not available, or that the model is discontinued, or some such.

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Choose a Sewing Machine. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Best answer:

Answer by Princess Taylah xxx
Don’t know hat the Serger is, never heard of it.
For beginners, all you may need is Straight stitch and Zigzag. Maybe you’ll need an over locker for clothes and stuff, but I don’t know much bout them.
But for a beginner, or advanced, Janome is fantastic. Everyone I know that has had one has had it for 20+ years with out a fault.

xxx

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